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The Taj Mahal, from a distance?

2009-03-24T04:25:00.001-07:00

Question: How many people can you fit on a rickshaw?
This is the land of Shiva.
A smile is the International language!
Even stopping for gas can be a real adventure! Lynne poses with these guys waiting behind us at the gas station. Look, same head dress!
Fruit is always available when you are on the road.
We stop at a Chai Shop(hehehe) along the side of the road. Our driver spoke absolutely no English. But somehow, we all enjoyed a Chai tea together!

We had a choice; either fly or take a 9 hour cab ride to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, one of the seven wonders of the world. While gathering details about the car trip in a local internet/travel agency, I meet a lovely woman that I noticed on the street earlier in the day. Her name is Shanta and she is an American living here for the past few years. I noticed her earlier because she was wearing bright orange robes with matching orange Crocs. I thought it was cute and she was beautiful. Whenever I see someone that looks western I always try to start up a conversation and maybe get some inside information about our travels. She was on the computer checking her email when I asked her where she was from. She told me originally Washington but now she lives here. She said that she used to follow a certain guru with her husband but now lives alone somewhere between Hardwar and Rishikesh. She hears that I am considering taking a cab to Agra and asks why I want to be on a bumpy road for such a long trip. Priscilla and I want to see the land and decide to take the car despite her advise. Big mistake! The trip ended up being 12 hours, not nine. And to call the road bumpy was an understatement. At one point we actually almost come to a complete stop because the potholes are so large we might fall right in. We arrive in Agra around 10pm, weary and bruised. We should have listened to Shanta!

We find an incredible hotel after checking out several places and have the porters bring in our luggage. We get our keys and ask for a wakeup call. We tell the four people standing behind the desk our plans to have a quick breakfast then off to see the Taj. They smile and say, "The Taj is closed on tomorrow". We look at each other and back at them. We actually believe they're kidding. "You are joking, right?", we ask. "No, I'm sorry. Friday is a holy day in the Muslim religion so it is always closed on Fridays." OMG! You should have seen our faces. We decide to make the best of it and get as close as possible in morning, take a few pics, and be on our way to Delhi to shop and begin our journey home.

After the best nights sleep I've had in a long time, we decide to try to see the Taj from the rooftop of our hotel. The view is cloudy but we definitely get a glimpe of it at a distance. We have breakfast in the cafe downstairs and have our bags brought back down by the porters. The poor man we've hired to drive us seems to have slept in the car all night, something that upsets Priscilla. She has been feeding him her leftovers from restaurants and giving him fruit she bought on the street since the ride began. We were warned that the street vendors and tour guides here can be quite aggressive, and this morning we see it's true. When we walk out to the car, sharks(as I call them) are swarming. They are selling tour books, asking if we need a guide, there's even a lady holding a small baby pointing to her mouth asking for food. She really wants money. There is a young man there, too, speaking almost perfect English. Hmmmm.... Can he be trusted? We end up hiring him to take us to "the best view of the Taj", he says, "even better than from the inside". When we get in the car he begins educating us. His voice changes and he asks us every once in a while if we understand. Funny. He told us earlier that it is his day off today and that he doesn't expect money. Whatever! He knows a lot about this place; names of the different kings and queens who lived here, dates when the building of this huge marble structure took place. He reminds us that back then there wasn't any machinery to lift these gigantic pieces of stone, it was all done by hand. Hard to believe. He says the king lost one of his many wives to childbirth and he was so distraught that he built the Taj as an everlasting symbol of his love for her. Priscilla brings up a good point; weren't the other wives kind of jealous? hehehe! After it's completion he decided to built another one, only black this time, where he will live out the rest of his life. The two are meant to signify white for female and black for male. His son,a bit more reasonable than the king, insists that he not waste the tax payers money on such a frivolous thing. The king refuses and the son has him arrested and thrown in jail. The Fort of Agra, which we drove past on our way to the Taj, seems to go on and on. It literally looks like a huge castle except really long instead of tall going on for several blocks. The king is said to have been kept here in a cell where he could see the Taj through his window. He died here after close to a decade.

We arrive in a parking lot filled with cars. The temple is open for Muslims to worship but not the Taj itself. There are beautiful gardens with a fountain at one side. We walk down a long brick sidewalk along the sides of the garden then through iron gates into a huge desert-like area. We look up and there it is, towering high into the clear blue sky. It is magnificent. Doesn't look white though. Our guide tells us that the stone has a certain quality that allows it to change color according to the time of day. Morning is supposed to be the best time to view it. As we walk closer there are children selling all sorts of souvenirs; books, key chains, maps. A small Indian man walks up with a camel. Yes, a really big camel. He asks if we want a ride. I'm like, heck yeah! Priscilla's like, hell no! I climb on and the camel lifts his butt, yikes, hold on tight. Then he lifts his front half, Whoa Nelly! I love it. Here I am riding on a camel with the Taj Mahal behind me. (video soon) Life is Good! Later on I talk Priscilla into petting, then sitting on the camel, but definitely not riding it!

We leave for Delhi around 1 pm with plenty of time to shop and make our 1:40am flight. The traffic in Delhi is so horrendous that we decide to skip shopping and go straight to the airport, even if it means a three hour wait till we can even get into the airport. So we lug our things into the waiting room cafe across from the airport and start eating. The food is actually really good, but we are tired. The guys running the restaurant try to kick us out of the comfy seats and move us the the airport seats on the other side of the room if we are done ordering. No way, we'll just keep buying coffee! Our flights were fine, only a three hour layover in Amsterdam. We arrive home around 2pm on Sat. Back to reality. It's Tuesday though, and I'm still not fully here in the good old USA. Give me time and I'll land eventually. I did miss the modern conveniences of this country. But feel drawn back again and again to the constant sound of Ommmmm that moves through the air, the mountains and rivers of India. The feeling of spirit is everywhere there. That I will miss! Till next time. Namaste~
p.s. Please check back as I will be posting video from the trip soon. Thanks for joining me.

Rafting Down the Mata Ganga

2009-03-18T20:34:00.000-07:00

Rafters coming down the river
Rafters close up!
Lynne and Priscilla with Red Chili Adventures' owner.
He was so happy to be on the water again after several months of working in the office. These guys are really good at what they do.

Today we took a rafting trip in the Ganges River. This looks like the raft we were in. We didn't bring our camera because the guy where we booked said to only bring sunscreen and water. So we did! These guys were walking down the dirt street by our hotel so I thought I could at least show you the kind of raft we clung to for our three hour journey down the holy Mata Ganga.

We arrived at the shop at 8:45am sharp. The guys behind the counter were no longer in dress shirts but now had on their tight fast drying clothes. Priscilla and I wore what we had. We all piled into the truck and headed up the river to the place where we would launch from. When we arrived Priscilla and I both started looking for a private place as we knew it would be several hours before we would see land again. Our guide, Bheem, like beam of light, fitted out helmets and vests and began our training in rafting safety. We jumped into the big raft with Bheem while the others launched into the water in safety kayaks that would follow us down the river and be there in case of any mishaps. Bheem kept having us repeat the commands he taught us that would help navigate us through the rapids. "RRRRRAPIDS!", shouted Priscilla. No, that's not a typo. She actually stuttered there. She made it clear that she was afraid of water and did not want to tip over. He tells us that some people actually do. I was under the assumption that not tipping over was the whole point. I believe these guys are so skilled at reading the currents of the river that it is actually a choice to tip or not. That doesn't stop Bheem from contantly harassing Priscilla. She thinks it's funny and knows he is just trying to take her mind off being afraid. The rapids seem to increase in difficulty as we go down the river which gives us time to adjust and gather our senses. In the end, it was a blast! We were laughing and screaming through every dip and turn. At one point I looked over at Priscilla to see why she wasn't screaming, and saw that she was concentrating so hard that she looked like she was in the operating room.(she is a surgical nurse, by the way)We got drenched and I got chilled but I wanted to come back the next day and do it all over again. Highly recommended in my book. Namaste~

Yoga in Rishikesh

2009-03-18T00:07:00.000-07:00

The sweet little yoga studio where we practices Ashtanga on the ghats(steps) on the Ganges River

Sitting in the Sunset Cafe close to the dge of the river

Our amazing Ashtanga yoga teacher, Kamal, right outside his studio

This was one of the biggest cows we saw. Little Priscilla makes it look really big!

Priscilla and Kamal just before our last class with him:-(

Since we came back to Rishikesh we've been attending classes with "The Prince". That's not really his name, but Natalie started calling him that after her one and only class with him. When you look for yoga in India it's an unusual experience because you would think since yoga came from India to America that it would be everywhere here. It is, but's it's not what we call yoga. In America, as most trained yoga teachers know, we've turned it into something almost purely physical. In India it is still in it's original form. There are eight limbs (Ashtanga) to the ancient system that include breathing, meditation and focus, and of course, the physical postures. There are moral ways of behaving towards others and self too.

When we stumbled across this yoga oasis resting on the edge of the Ganges Rver we were intrigued. We peeked in the window and told ourselves that when the festival was over we would come and take classes here. Natalie was the only one with enough energy on that 8th day to follow through. When she returned from class to the ashram she was thrilled. She had found a true jewel on the Ganga. Priscilla and I decided to leave town pretty quickly after the festival so didn't get a chance to attend. But now that we are back it's at the top of our oriority list.

Kamal wa ytained by Shri Patabhi Jois himself. And it shows. His classes are filled with Westerners from all over. I don't think in all the classes we attended I saw one local person. It may be the 200 rupees ($4) that he charges keeping them away. To locals this is a lot of mula. But to us, it's a true blessing.We are lines up in two rows facing each other. Vrt traditional. We begin with the Ashtaga chant, three oms and a few gentle stretches. Then to standing to begin. Each Ashtanga practice begins with five surya namaskar a's and b's. He leads us through the first one then let's us go on our own, guiding those who are new individually.

As we move into the standing sequence of postures, he somehow manages to adjust every single one of us in every pose. He skips me occassionally. I tell myself it's because I don't need it, but reason that it could be because others need it more. I figured out after my first session that to be in the row facing the Ganga was a much better view. We get to each class early so we can face the holy river. When you are there it feels rather normal to be doing all of this. But when you return home and think back it all feels like a dream. To have the Karma(good fortune from past good actions) to be in such a situation. To practice Ashtanga yoga right on the Holy Mata ganga, is quite remarkable.

Kamal has a way of putting our bodies into places we didn't even know existed. He pulls our arms through our legs to take unknown binds. He lifts our legs up so high we are almost in full splits, standing. It's as if his confidence is contagious. When he is adjusting me I completely trust him. He is so intuitive and I feel so connected to him while I'm in his presence that I have no fear of being hurt. His adjustments are very strong, almost Iyengar like. But his sense of awareness penetrates any doubt that he knows exactly what he is doing. What an amazing teacher.

During our week back in Rishikesh we also attend a class in the Yoga Hall. This studio sits atop of some shops that back up to the river. When we are in one of our favorite restaurants near Laxman Jula bridge, the studio is directly outside the windows facing the river. it looks as if it is floating high in the sky with floor to ceiling windows looking down onto the river. What an amazing location. We have to navigate up several flights of outdoor stairs to reach it. A very large monkey scares the Bajesus out of us at the top.(to capitalize or not capitalize, that is the question?) He hisses and bears his teeth right in Priscilla's face. We both jump back. We notice a few little baby monkeys frolicking about and realize the mother was just being a mother- monkey style!

There are about 10 of us in this class. The teacher is a middle aged Indian man dressed in white. We have a beautiful view of the river from here but have little time to notice. The postures are done in ways foriegn to both of us but we graciously go along. He finishes the class with several versions of headstand then scorpio which he assists everyone in. Shavasana(final relaxation- the most inportant posture) is too short. It is dark out now and I want to sleep, I mean, relax. But we all sit up and chant and bow. I notice the teacher several times throughout the class drinking water and gazing out into the unknown. I wonder if he is bored or simply intuiting our next posture. After being in Kamal's classes I feel a bit neglected. We pay our 100 rupees and thank him for class. He asks me where i teach. i guess it shows. We find out later that what we were rpacticing was Sivananda Yoga. A young fench woman in the class tells us she is doing teacher training with him and loves it. We don't return mostly because we are so in love with our Ashtanga practice with Kamal and time is of an essence.

The morning after our crazy hike down the Himalayan mountain, when our legs felt like 300 pound weights and our walking mantra was, "ow, ow, ow", with each step, we decide to take in some Yin with Lynne on the balcony of our hotel room. It was about 9am and the sun was still behind the mountains. The wind is strong here in the morning but the building protects us and allows us to watch the trees blowing violently without affect. The yin practice opens joints and ligaments and increases flexibilty. Our muscles are so tight from our hike that working the joints feels even more amazing than usual. When we are done the sun is high in the sky and we are hot and lose. Ahhhh, what a feeling.

The last day in Rishikesh we head up the mountain, back to the place where our raft came back to shore. I noticed this little beach area that looked perfect for taping a yoga class on the Ganges River. We take the long walk down the path trying hard to beat the sun. The light is prerfect but we know eventually it will hit the horizon and dissapear. We set up the tripod and camera and my yoga mat and Priscilla calls out, "Action". Hahaha! The river is flowing behind me and the mountains create a sweet background. Rafting boats float by and a dog decide to enter the picture. There are dogs everywhere here so I'm not surprised. No big deal. My body is so tired and this is supposed to be a vinyasa video. So I keep plugging along. The sand is collecting on the mats and each time I bring my foot up over my head sand trickles down my leg into my face. The uneven surface creates lots of editing, that's ok. The sun below the horizon is a sweet surprise of golden glow on our skin so we keep rolling. We want to make sure we are not walking up the desolate dirt road to the main road in the dark. So we pack up and go. The taxi magically appears as we reach the top, panting and tired. Today we leave for Agra to see the Taj Mahal. A 10 hour drive never sounded so good. Namaste

Back To Rishikesh

2009-03-16T02:55:00.000-07:00

This is an awesome view of the Ram Jula bridge in Rishikesh.
This is what one of the Internet places looks like from the inside.
We found this amazing little cafe up these long concrete stairs into a whole new world in Rishikesh. The view from the cafe looks down onto the Ganga. Sweeet!
Yes, it's a phone booth. In case you were wondering, this is how you make a long distance phone call from India. Just like the good old days!
One of our favorite places to eat near Laxman Jula bridge. The Little Buddha Cafe. But don't even try to rush them. They are definitley on Indian time!
This dog sitting on the edge of an overhang looks out over the Holy River, as if on duty.
Not only fast moving motor bikes cross this bridge, but slow moving cows too!

On Thursday night before we boarded our train we visited the Tibetan Childrens' Village, a place where young refugees are housed and educated. The children graciuosly stop and smile for pictures. The kids seem so happy. A little girl stops and tell us she is 10 years old and that down the steep set of concrete steps along the side of the mountain is where the girls live. We ask her to show us and she goes ahead leading the way. It seems such a friendly place with play sets and colorful buildings with animals painted on them. I suppose after what these kids have experienced, leaving their country quickly and maybe even their families and friends, even a place as sweet as this one might feel lonely at first. At the bottom of the steps is a building with long hallways and marble floors and steps going up somewhere. The young girl says goodbye and we begin to explore. We go up the stairway and find a huge room empty except for some teenage girls studying at a table opposite where we are. We ask if we can take pics and they agree. They tell us this is the eating hall for girls. The walls are tall with windows all along the edge of the ceiling to let the natural light in. There are book shelves everywhere and pictures and paintings the girls have created. Downstairs again we go around a corner and outside onto a platform where we find three girls washing their hair and a couple others doing laundry. When they see us they laugh and giggle and hide their faces. I ask if we can take pictures of them and they immediately respond, "Noooooo", and laugh some more. They're teenagers. What do I expect! The girls washing clothes are twisting and ringing out the shirts and pants against the cement ground they are perched on. Then they dip the clothes into the clean water bucket to rinse and hang the clothes on a line to dry. A long arduous labor intensive process. We notice that back inside there are three large cans for recycling. Yes!! I make a donation of toys I purchased in the dollar section of Target before I left. I was hoping to see the grateful faces who received these gifts but realized that this could cause quite a rucous. So we decide to give them to a sweet older woman in the office. Obviously this was not an original idea of mine because this is her job. I really didn't know who the gifts would go to when I bought them, but am so happy to have found this place and seen these adorable children so happy and free.

We arrived in Rishikesh rested and ready to roll on Friday morning, March 13th. The overnight train was nice and we both slept well on our upper bunks. I took pictures but a virus ate them. Bummer! Once we arrived we had a nice breakfast with friends we met at the station in a hotel restaraunt overlooking the Ganga. Laxman Jula is sweeeet!!! The bridge is smaller than Ram Jula bridge but just as crowded. This end of Rishikesh is known for the enourmous temples looming hign into the sky over the Mata Ganga. (hope you know what that means by now!)The shpping is incredible and we found, after a whole morning of walking in and out of one hotel after another, a really nice place called Topovan Resort. The rooms each have a small balcony looking over a garden. Every day there ar boys out back planting and watering. The wind whips through quite strongly from sunrise to about 10am. We planned a hike on Sunday and I was worried that the weather would hold us back since we were traveling up into the mountains about an hour by car than coming back down by foot. We hired a guide to show us through the hills. His name was Alok(a-luke), which means light. He told us that jyoti also means light but used ore frequently for a candle flame. He is a 26 year old entreprenuer. He takes people trekking, meaning they move a lot faster than we did, white water rafting, which we will attempt tomorrow, and touring through temples around the city. He says he could not make a living doing just one thing. He tells us that his family lives high up in the mountains, about 70 kilometers from here. Why are we stll not using the metric system like the rest of the world? Anyway, we had no idea what we were about to experience.

When the car dropped us off we began an unexpected climb up 300 steps to an amzing Durga Temple at the top of this mountain range. He tells us that in India Durga is known as the Goddess of power. When we reach the top there is this beautiful entry way with an ornate stone arch with golden lions at each side. Inside we enter a small temple where two older women are conducting prayers. We sit down and they place thick colored water drop between our eyebrows and some kind of small rice like peices on top. We give them the bag of sweet food offerings we bought before we climbed up and they take it, bless it, and pass it around to everyone to take and eat. They return the bag to us so we can take it home for our families to be blessed too. We give it to some children asking for sweets when we return to the bottom. Alok tells us that Rishikesh is 300 kilometers about sea level. And that where we are at the top is 1750 klometers. So our descent is around 1450. Doesn't sound that far, right?

We pass through a small village school where children are on break from their studies. We stop and take pics with them. We see beautiful indigenous trees and plants. Soaring rock formations. Monkeys, of course. The trail is covered in small white rocks that make it even more of a challenge. Each step we take is with fear that the ground will slide away from under us. Our guide tells us to push down hard when we walk but I prefer to step on the few larger rocks to keep my footing. A sudden slide of the foot here and there keeps us present. We stop occassionally to catch our breath. Our young companion says that he has guided women and men who get down the trail in and hour and a half. It takes up around four and a half hours. He says there is a beautiful water fall just fifteen minutes from where we stop and asks us to keep going untl we reach it. After a half hour we ask how much longer? Only five more minutes. I tell him he must be talking about Indian time, and he laughs. Close to an hour later we reach the water and my feet need some cooling off. My shoes definitely were not made for this kind of a hike. Priscilla's tennis shoes are better. Our guide is wearing heavy hiking boots that make it look like a breeze. The next day our bodies are feelin' it. Instead of taking our early morning ashtanga practice, we sleep. Later on we get up and decide to practice Yin Yoga instead. This helps our sore muscles stretch but we are still suing the mantra, OW, with each step today. It was definitley worth seeing the city from up hign. The mountain range is huge. Being in nature for just a brief moments away from the honking horns and screeching motor cycles helped us feel connected.

Namaste~ Lynne

Debrah and John

2009-03-15T23:26:00.000-07:00

When my friend John and I traveled to India in December of 2007, we knew we were going on an adventure of a lifetime. India always is. I've been there three times now and it's always a completely different experience. When we arrived in Bombay the parents of one of John's friends from Fargo (yes, just like the movie!) picked us up at the airport. They were so gracious and wanted so badly to show us their city and all it's attractions. We spent the following day in and out of their car, seeing monuments and tourist sites all around Bombay. They were all beautiful, but we wanted to see the country and get away from the noise of the busy city. Before leaving home I began reading a book recommended to me by a dear friend by Osho, an Indian guru, who began teaching in the 50's and 60's. His main ashram was only a three hour bus ride from Bombay. So the next morning we had our tickets and were off. The bus ride was through small villages and mountains.

When we arrived at the front gate of the ashram we were blown away by the modern beauty of the marble walls with water streaming down and the bamboo tree lined marble walkway throughout the entire ashram. The grounds were divided in two with a street running down the middle. You had to show your pass to get in through the gates. The ashram has two restaurants, several buildings for classes and meditation. We wanted to make sure we tried out all of the classes that were being offered. There was Ndabrahma Meditation (humming and slow hand movements), Kundalini meditation( shaking the body and dancing), Dancing Drum Meditation( where you dance until you drop), and many other active meditations, as they are called here. One afternoon we decided to attend the Dancing Heart Meditation. When we entered the enormous marble room there were about 100 people standing around from all over the globe. We are instructed to get into a big circle and hold hands. We begin walking in one direction singing an easy song. We break into two circles and go in opposite directions and are asked to stop in front of each person we pass and gaze into their eyes. So many beautiful sisters and brothers. Some people laugh, some people cry. It's all good!

When the class is over John comes to me and tells me that he met somebody during class. I say to him , "But how could you meet anyone, we didn't even talk?" He told me that they had looked at each other and he had felt something really special. They had lunch that day and spent the next week getting to know one another, visiting another ashram a plane ride away. Two years later John and Deborah are married and living mostly in Fargo. Deborah is from Brazil and has rocked John's world. When we see them in Dharmsala they can't keep their hands off each other. It's as if they have always been together. I think they represent what we mean when we say "soul mates". When one of them is talking the other is completely present with them, looking into their eyes, really listening to every word they say. They have done a lot of work on their own through meditation, ect, and now they do the work together, joyfully! I wish them all the best and know that they will continue to grow as individuals and as an amazing couple. Spiritual partners, forever! Amen~

The Day of Holy Teachings

2009-03-14T09:18:00.000-07:00

Since we had the opportunity to at least see the Dali Lama the day we arrived I wasn't sure if my thrill had been used up already. But today, March 11th, Priscilla and I got up early, 6am, to take the walk down the mountain to the Main Temple, as it's called here in Dharmsala. We arrive around 7am and we are one of the first people here. The temple is set up for many more so we make our way into the second row where we are among Tibetan people, young and old. The man in front of Priscilla leaves and she moves into front row. I'm enjoying making friends with a little girl about 7 years old sitting next to me with her mother, I think, and Grandmother. The older woman each have a Tobetan text in thier hands and are reciting prayers. It's very fast and beautiful. The girl is fidgeting and eventually walks to an area along the edge of the temple where you can look down onto the villages below or up to the Himalayans. I join her. I point out to the mountains and say "beautiful!" She looks out and gets shy. I do some stretches on the rail and make my back. By this time we are good friends. I get out my chapstick and notice her watching me with intrigue. I remember that I have an extra in my bag from one of the little bags they give you when flying first class. Not us, Natalie! So I fetch it out of my bag and put it out to her. Her Mom is watching. She looks at her Mom and then takes it. I know she is dying to try it on but isn't sure what to do and whether or not she's supposed to give it back. Later on while the Dali Lama is speaking she takes a long nap on her Grandmothers lap and her feet are pressing gently against my leg. I like it. There are no cameras aloud in the main temple when the Dali Lama is present so I don't have any photos of her. But take my word for it, Tibetan kids are adorable! Whe His Holiness comes in their is a procession of men carrying flags and some playing some kind of horn. They are all wearing uniforms with tall bright yellow pluming helmets. When he reaches the thrown like chair he teaches from another group of men collect before him and begin a long chanting session. Tobetan chanting is very low and throaty. It feels like a strong vibration in my heart chakra. Sometimes it sounds like he is going to break out into a laugh like the Dali Lama does sometimes. He is standing directly in front of him with others around in a half circle chiming in occassionaly. It's very beautiful. All of the Tibetan people in the audience join in for the next several chants. I remember some of them from my times at Red Lotus for the taechings on Tuesday nights.

When the Dali Lama begins to speak we plug in our transistor radios we bought last night. I find what I think is the proper channel but there is a second voice translating in another language at the same time. I assume, for about 30 minutes, that this is just how it is. It takes great concentration to get the English but I am determined. After a while it occurs to me to turn the channel a bit and search for an alternative. I find it, loud and clear. Hallelueja!! The teaching is on the compassionate Buddha. He tells tells the story of his life and how he wanted to find the root of suffering. On how our mental afflictions are the root to our suffering. And how compassion is the way out. That's a big word and one that needs to be studied. Look it up on the internet or in your dictionary. See what it says.

I saw my friend John Marks from Minnesota here as he walks into the crowd to find a seat after it is a bit more crowded. Amazing how that happens. After the talk we join him and his beautiful wife Debrah and several of their Brazilian friends for breakfast at a sweet place close to the temple. There are hundreds of people exiting all at once but the energy of the crowd is mellow and gentle. It's kind of fun being swept down the street but fear of losing eachother keeps us awake and aware. It starts out just four of us at the table but eventually there are seven or eight. We have friends from Canada, Crystal eventually finds us, Brazil and us from the U.S. The food is delicious and the company even better. We stay for over two hours talking about the teachings and how John and I met Debrah in India last trip.( see next posting) We part after making plans to meet the next day to visit the Tibetan Childrens Village where child refugees are educated and housed up in the mountains.

Yesterday when I checked my email I found a response from John from an email I had sent him several days earlier saying that he was still here in Dharmsala. I called the number he left and Debrah answered. I told her we were here and she said John was away but for us to come to where they were staying to visit. Deborah has been coming here for teaching for quite a long time and one of her teachers is actually friends with the Dali Lama's brother. When we arrived it did seem like a little piece of heaven like John had called it in his email. The house of the Dli Lama's mother was a small stone place sourrounded with gardens and a larger house sat up on a hill beside it. This is where his brother lives. We are blown away by how normal of a house it is with bookshelves and a marble floor and a big eating table in a dining room. We join him, deborah and two other Brazilian women for lunch. The food is outstanding, fresh greens, lentils and rice and fried bananas for dessert. We go to their room after to find a large living area, this is where his mother lived and slept and we believe that he and his mother sat and talked. There is a fireplace which they use every night and an amzing bed and bath with hot shower. I real jem here in India. We walk with them up the mountain a bit past locals who John has already befriended to the monestary wherethey are taking a class in mandalas and dreams from a Brazilian teacher. We meet pass some other students on our way out and the 30 something Brazilain man says he remembers me from the airport. Seems like months ago! Which airport? What day? Where were we going or coming from? We finally figure out that we spoke in the Delhi airport. The teacher was standing next to me when we were waiting for our luggage when we first arrived in India. I started talking to him after I called a man a Boddhisatva who was helping everyone with their luggage. He heard me and smiled so I stuch up a conversation with him. Coincidence> I don't think so! Whe I see the teacher again I remind him of our meeting and we laugh. He is a very sweet older man with a heavy accent but perfect English. We go into the room where the etachings take place and they tell us that this is where the Dali Lama comes to meditate. Wow! Wha great Karma we have. What a day.

Namaste~ Lynne

His Holiness Finds Us

2009-03-10T08:41:00.000-07:00

Our train arrives at 3am, on schedule. It's cold and dark but we are now with three others. We hang out and wait till 4 for our bus to arrive. We met a nice girl from France, Crystal, who now lives in the Cape. She's cool and tough so I feel comfortable being here. There are others too drinking chai from the all night cafe. The taxi drivers tell us there is no bus coming here, that we must go directly to the bus station. We think they are lying so wait till 4:30. When the bus doesn't arrive we decide to grab a car instead. It's faster and we can be alone. The ride is three hours long up into the mountains. Are driver is good but that doesn't make the road any smoother. Our heads are swinging back and forth and it lulls us into a temporary sleep deprived coma. The other two girls fall asleep. I try but am too uncomfortable. I'm a lght sleeper as it is and being tossed about makes it impossible. We arrive in Dharmsala around 8am. Most everything is closed but there are still many people up and about. We stay by the luggage while Crystal, who has been here before, scopes out the housing situation. Most places are full because of the talk by the Dali Lama. We came a day early to avoid this. We find a decent room for a good price with an amazing view of the Himalayans. We have a nice breakfast at the Green Hotel where everything is organic and good. We have eggs to get some energy and check out the town. We hear from a girl on the street that the Dali Lama is giving a talk today at noon. When we arrive at the main temple we can hear him talking over the loud speakers in the street. (video to come) We make our way in, camera in tow. As we approach the guards he stops me and says there are no camera allowed. We are searched after leaving one person outside with all of our cameras so there is no way we could have made it through even if it was hidden. We make it to the staairway where it is super crowded with people crunched in to catch a glimpse of His Holiness. What good karma we must have to be here. We can here him talking but can't see him yet. People laugh at his jokes and so do we even though we can't understand a word of the tibetan. He begins to lead a beautiful chant and all og the tibetans around us follow. We put our hands in prayer and close our eyes. I can feel the energy all around me, penetrating my heart. A little while later several guards clear the path down the stairs and slowly down the he comes. There are many tibetan monks all around him but you always know it's him by his glasses. He is smiling as always and stops to shake hands with people sitting on the floor in the front row. He walks right in front of us by the stairs about ten feet away. When he looks our way we wave. He smiles and looks away.When we leave the streets are filled with thousands of people. Everyone is so happy and friendly here. I think he has a powerful effect on most, even if they don't realize it at first. This is truly a blessing. Namaste~

Trains, Planes, and Automobiles. Oh My!

2009-03-10T08:13:00.000-07:00

More like, oh my God! We left Rishikesh by car, small car. It was fine though. It's a one hour drive through farmland, big trees and small villages. We get caught in traffic jams along the way in busy market places which seem to be in the middle of nowhere. We stop for a train for about five minutes and motor bikes wiz by our open windows to make it to he front of the line.

We know we are in Hardiwar when When Shiva statues begin to appear. The first one we spot looks like it's 10 stories high lunging high into the sky out of the Ganges river. A friend from the festival leaves us at the train station to catch a bus so we are now officially a duo instead of a trio. We have an hour before our train so we find a place to sit and relax by the toilets.(that's what they call bathrooms here). A row of men and women sitting across from us stare incessantly. I forgot how uncomfortable this can feel. But after a few minutes they are back in thier own worlds. An old man begging approaches us slowly, pushing a walker in front of hom, step by step. He puts his fingers to his month and says something in Hindi. Priscilla says all she has to do is look into their eyes and she's reaching in her pocket for 10 rupees. He holds out a metal cup and she drops it in. We watch as he approaches the row of people across from us. Now we are staring to see what happens. They pretty much ignore and turn away from him.

We find our train and board. Not exactly what we expected but our car to Hardwar wasn't either. We had paid for a big car and ended up stuffed into and car smaler than my Vibe. With the language barrier it's difficult to know whether this is intentional or not. We are now sitting on the train eating tomato spanish spice potato chips from our new Hindu friends. It's dark out now, about 7pm. There's a lot of comotion, people talking, babies crying and playing with loud toys. Our train arrives at 2:30am. We're setting the cell phone to wake us up at 2 hoping it doesn't lose time like it has before during the night.There are three beds on each side of our compartment, stacked to the top. And then two more that face us from the other side of the walk way. There is an older couple sitting there facing us. They offered us chips and bought us Chai soon after leaving the station. It's the best chai tea in India! A younger woman sits across from us alone. We are hoping that no one else shows up and we have this area to ourselves. We find out that she is an artist and she shows us a small photo album of her paintings. They are beautiful. Mostly Indian themes of Ganesh(the elephant headed God), women and landscapes. Some abstracts too. She is returning from an exhibition of her work in Dehradun. She told us that when her son was born he had an eye du\isease that kept her home with him. She would meditate and one day God gave her this gift. That is how she learned to paint. Some of her paintings are amazingly realistic with fabric flowing and hills rolling. Very fluid and beautiful. We're not sure if we will sleep as we've noticed small furry creatures scampering about on the floor looking for something to eat. Priscilla and I are trying to control our gasps and the Indian people think we are being funny. Ha Ha At least we have the top bunks.
Good Night. Sleep Tight. Don't Let The Mice Bite!
Namaste~ Lynne

More Pictures From the Ashram

2009-03-09T23:10:00.000-07:00

These flowering bushes hung down along the walkway inside the Ashram where we walked each day.

A Beautiful Display of Flowers and Plants Native to India

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The Walkway Inside the Ashram By Our Room

A Garden Inside the Ashram

The Center of the Ashram

The door to our room at the ashram.

A woman cooking Papad, a crispy Indian bread, in the marketplace by the Ashram.

On Our Way to the Holy Land- Or Not!

2009-03-07T22:54:00.000-08:00

Here is the Yoga Hall At Parmarth Ashram where many of the yoga classes take place.

Here is a sign I saw while walking along the Ganga anouncing yoga classes.

These girls smiled as we snapped pictures of them. Afterwards I showed them the pic and they all giggled!

Today we plan our trip to Dharmsala to hear the Dali Lama give a talk on the Compassionate Buddha. Sounds easy, right? Not so much. We ask several different internet cafe/travel agents to help us with our trip. It seems that since everyone and his mother(hi Mom!) is going where we are going that you can only get special tickets now that cost 500 rupees extra. We want to travel 2nd class air, which means that the train has windows as opposed to bars, and the seats are more comfortable. It's an 11 hour train ride into the city close to Dharmsala from where we will take a bus into the main area to search for a room close to the temple where he will speak. Since there are so many people traveling after the festival all of the trains are filled up. There are no more 2nd class seats, only sleepers. This means it would be a rough ride, less safe and comfortable. We go to yet another travel place and end up booking 3rd class air which means nice! When I was in India in 2006 we took 3rd class once, I think it was from Delhi to Rajastan, to ride camels. There were waiters dressed in uniforms carrying silver tea service. I remember laughing at how many times they brought us food and drinks. It was completely opposite of what most of Indian travel was like. We'll see! ( right Jon?)

We have breakfast in a nice cafe here in the market and tell our server our plans. He too handles travel accomadations. Who knew. He pulls a curtain in the back of the restaurant and a small travel agency appears. Well, not exactly like that, but close! He reserves cars for both of us to get to our stations one hour away, Natalie to Dehradun and us to Hardiwar. As we're sitting eating our breakfast a marching band comes through the market way, trombones and all. We hear that it is a famous local Swamiji's birthday and this is part of the celebration. We shop a while and head back to the room to pack up our things and check out of the ashram. The journey should be interesting. Like Priscilla commented this morning while trying to book our travel, you never know what's gonna happen next here in India. We're not sure if we will have contact from Dharmsala or not. If not, no worries, we'll be with his Holiness!

Namaste~ Lynne

Day Seven & We're in Heaven

2009-03-07T04:50:00.000-08:00

A Garbage Picking Monkey At The Ashram

This morning I woke up really early and felt wide awake. I went back to sleep and woke up again, still dark out. Natalie came in, she's our alarm clock too, and said it was 6. The others decided to sleep in but I knew if I missed this last day of Kriya Yoga I would be disappointed, so I got up. I have really enjoyed rising early, before the sun, since we've been here. The air is warm this morning so my walk is slow and easy. When I arrive I'm actually early and only a few people are arranging their spots. I get as close to Mataji as possible and et a nice thick bolster to sit on. This class begins with three Om's and then pranayama, like the other day. We chant the Sun Salutation chant which I have never heard before. It is beautiful. She says it is in honor of the light within, the sun, within. Ahhhh. We also chant the Gayatri Mantra 24 times. Wow! Really liking this version. I am so used to the one that Kate sings in our Kirtan concerts.

Our Breakfast Buffet

When I come out of the class the place is waking up and people are scampering about with yoga mats in tow. In the room the girls are getting ready and we all head to the breakfast buffet to eat quickly before Iyengar. He has told us over and over about not eating before class so we try to eat an hour before so we don't disturb our practice. Today is extra special since it is our last day with him. We practice the same as yesterday but today it feels stronger. Our bodies are so aligned from sven days with Raya. A woman in the room today whispers to her friend that Raya is gorgeuos. He asks what she says and she repeats it to him. He blushes. At the end of the class he says, That's That, again and we all clap. He is so humble. He says a few words and we clap again. He takes the microphone and tells us that everything he has taught us comes straight from Guriji, B.K.S. Iyengar, and Gita and his son. He makes sure this is clear. Him humility evokes a third round of applause. What an amazing and beautful teacher. Everyone obviously has been touched by this man.

One of Natalie's Beneficiaries

Grocer weighing Natalie's contribution.

Priscilla at the Internet Cafe in the Market

We have lunch at the ashram. Seems they are serving leftovers since it is the last day of the festival. We walk through the marketplace afterwards so Natalie can begin her shopping. She is leaving tomorrow and we are sad to see her go. She has really made this trip an adventure. She has touched so many beings here, human and non-human, small and large. I'm sure the cows will miss her too. And the man she bought 20 rupees worth of carrots every day from to feed the cows. And the grocery where she bought dog biscuits for the dogs. And the sick and old who she gave the bags full of money and clothing to on the streets here in Rishikesh. Thanks Natalie for joining us for the first week of our journey. We miss you already!

A Monkey Hangs Out On The Edge Of The Ganga Bridge

A Man and His Cow

We'll Miss You Natalie

Namaste~ Lynne

And That's That!

2009-03-05T22:25:00.000-08:00

This morning we woke up around 6:30am to attend an early morning class. But instead we sat in our room and shared stories and discussed the day and all that we are experiencing. I can see that we are all slowing down so much. We walk slower, talk slower,( yes, even Natalie) we eat slower and practice yoga more aware of our own bodies. Yep, India is the perfect place to let go and open our hearts to the divine. So funny how misconceptions usually occur in those who are not informed about this sacred union with the one. Some think yoga is a religion. I know, some of you are laughing at this. But when I opened my yoga studio in Bemidji, MN, there were Christian people that were told not to come. I feel that I am a Christian, I am a Buddhist and also a Yogi. I suppose if we do not know ourselves enought we may be threatened that something might take us away from the things outside ourselves we are depending on. You know? I have learned from practicing spirituality through yoga that all we need is within; including God, including all the love we crave from others, and all of the answers to all of the questions we seek! Yoga helps us to experience this. I believe God brought me to yoga, to this wonderful place in India with my beautiful soul sisters, and also to true myself.

"And that's that!" At the end of our first class today this is what Raya says. We are all so used to hearing Namaste at the end of class so we, the three of us anyway, say it softly and bow. We are back to asana today adding pasvotonasana and sirsasana, head stand. Raya suggests half headstand for most. But adds that for thos who are "itching" to go up to go ahead. I do! It feels good. The structure of my postures is getting so strong. I believe this is the idea in Iyengar. To work first on structure and then bring that awareness into each pose. It really has made me feel strong again. I think this style of yoga is good for everyone. It is good for me because I have become over-flexible from years of Vinyasa and it is good for those just beginning because it sets a great foundation for the practice. Yeah, I'm hooked. And I think my sisters here would agree. Today our teacher was talking about how the spine needs to be supported with the rest of the body instead of letting the body hang on the spine. He uses such interesting analogies too. I whisper and write down his "scarecrow" analogy to describe the body hanging on the bones he walked by and asked me, "what are you doing?" We all laughed. He is so modest about his amazing knowledge. I don't want to forget a word.

After class we mozy down for brunch. It is absolutely delicious today. They are serving the same dosa's from the other day. Dosa is a thin pancake wrapped around veggies, in this case. You can get other fillings too. They are served with coconut chutney. Yummy! They are also serving peas cooked al dente,(probably not on purpose), in a sweet sauce. Brown rice with Raita, which is a yogurt(curd) with garbanzo beans mixed in. They have decided to serve spicy and non-spicy versions of everything now. Thank God, since spicy food upsets my delicate tummy. The non-spicy veggies today, green beans and red carrots, are perfect and they are also now serving baked chipati(pita like bread) instead of the fried version. The ashram is really trying hard to make westerners as comfortable as possible. When I met with Swamiji yesterday he mentioned this. Even as we sit and eat people who work at the ashram come around and ask us for feedback. I think each year we attend will get more and more comfortable. Remember though, it is still India!

This afternoons class is for only Priscilla and I. Natalie decides to take a well deserved nap instead. Yoga Nidra is also known as sleeping yoga. Sounds good to me!
Our teacher, a small Indian woman wrapped in safron robes, cured herself of a disease she was told was chronic and deadly in her kidneys. She used yoga, which you know is not just physical asana, to cure herself. She told me today that Iyengar's daughter Gita suffers from the same disease but is not cured yet. She begins the class with a beautiful class. We sit in cross legs with eyes closed to listen. This is the same teacher from yesterdays early morning class, Kriya Yoga, with the angelic voice. After that she begins to explain Yoga Nidra. She talks about Moksha, freedom. And How if we are not free, or do not understand what freedom means and feels like ourselves, we will not allow others to be free. She says that love is not binding. This is an interesting word and very appropriate. Yoga Nidra is used to explore the higher self. She explains that in order to know the self we must know the mind intimately. We must get to the point where we can watch the mind instead of being dragged around from present to future to past, from worry, to fear to anxiety. She says that we must 1st accept that the mind is distrurbed. Then we can change our attitude, the only thing we can change. Then wisdom comes, the wisdom to know the difference. Sounds familiar. She uses the Serenity prayer to help us understand. We must address the mind in Nidra and guide it as the master not the victim. From here she takes us to supine laying down position where we tighten and release each area of our body. A Tambor is used in the background to create a white noise affect and lull us into the state between sleep and awake.I think the only reason I didn't just fall asleep was because of all of the snoaring going on in the room. There are probably 100 people here today sharing this beautiful experience. Maybe it takes some time, like all things, to be able to use this as a tool of awakening. I would like to begin teaching this when I get home.

No break in between classes, we just keep our mats down for the next teacher to arrive. Mohan is a teacher from China who owns 20 yoga centers. I can see why. His presents is engaging. This class is called Yoga Adjustments. We begin the class like yesterdays with simple stretches and breathing. But today he stops the class often to demonstrate the postures. He teaches us how to push here and reach here to keep the body aligned and open. I'm learning so much. We are always students!

We leave after class to drop off yoga gear and pick up shower gear. Yep, back across the Ganga by boat for another massage and hot shower. Today I get my free facial. It's a bit awkward though as I sit in a chair as she scrubs and moisturizes my face. The lights go out while we are waiting for my clay mask to dry and she is painting my nails. She leaves the room and returns with candles. When we're done I go back where Pris is and get my head and body massage. We head to our favorite restauant for dinner. Same for me, when I find something I like I stick with it. Our waiter, MB, tells us about a book that Natalie has actualy read called Yoga Schools Drop Out. He tells us that the woman that wrote the book came to this place as she traveled through India and that he is mentioned in the book. He shoes us what she wrote about him and where his name is mentioned. Funny! He tells us that he supports his whole family which includes his wife and children, two brothers and his mother and father. All on a waiters salary, in India! Big tip for him tonight! We notice a couple of young boys, 20ish, eating piles of Chapati bread at another table. We ask about them and he tells us that they are from Nepal. They come to the restaurant every night to help clean us and then they are fed. That is why so much food. This may be their only meal today. A little later he comes back with the book to show me that the woman who wrote it and ate there ate the ame thing as me! It says it right in her book, Paneer Tikka Masla with Ginger Lemon Honey tea. So funny!

Off to the market to see what really happens late at night, loud Hindi music and lots of locals. Seems that when the yogi's are sleeping the Hindu's start rocking!

Hari Om~
Lynne

Day 5 and Still Alive!

2009-03-04T23:06:00.001-08:00

Boat ride across the Mata Ganga was easy. The wind yesterday kept us off the water. Better safe than sorry.

This man sitting by the ghats was happy to be in my picture. I gave him ten rupees anyway! Hare Om.... Told you everyone squats in India!

We woke up extra late this morning after eight hours sleep. Think we all needed it badly. I hurt my foot jumping around in Jivamukti yesterday, Natalie has a cold and Priscilla is having some weird sensation in her hip. i asked the Iyengar teacher about it today and he said lots of people are experiencing these kinds of things. I guess when you're not used to practicing yoga four times a day your body is bound to complain a bit. That's ok. Today we feel much better and decide to take it easy. We all really wanted to practice 108 sun salutations on the waterfront but our bodies had another idea. Like Paul Grilley told me, The first rule of yoga is listen to your body! So we did. So instead we take a boat ride across the river and head back to the Madras Cafe for a long relaxing breakfast.

Porridge with muesli, yogurt and fruit. Yummy!

We went back to the ashram over the brodge in the background of these pictures, called Ram Jula Brodge, by foot. In India everyone walks after eating to help with digestion. Today is our 5th day practicing Iyengar in a row. The class is small when the teacher arrives so he has each of us take two bolsters and two blankets for props. By the time we finish our first supported supine posture the room is full. I wonder if plan B is still possible. The teacher comments on this and all of us in the front row laugh! The whole class is prepping us for pranayama with one variation of savasana after another. it's hard to not fall asleep after o many days of yoga and the relaxing postures plus his soothing voise. He talks us through each pose, asking us to continue breathing into out chest to spread it wide and relax our face, throat and abdomen with each exhale. We use bolsters to help our chests lift and expand. And we use blankets to soften on the hard cement floor. I think this is why I hurt my foot yesterday. Jumping back to Chaturanga on such a hard surface is very hard on the toes. Ouch! Priscilla comments that she never thought she would practice an hour and a half Savasana. We are so relaxed after class but there is more yoga to be done. We decide to stay in the same room and check out a new class called Hatha Energy Yoga with a man from China.

Feeling great after Iyengar... ahhhhhhh!

>

The class starts out nice and easy and slow. This is what we expected and wanted. Soon we are practicing an unusual variation of Sun Salutes I have never seen before but like very much. The man is small but looks really strong in a soft ancient buddha way. His voice is beautiful and he adds a aaaah at the end of some of his sentences that I don't really understand. Standing postures are repated after long stretches so we can feel the difference in out bodies. He takes us to the floor and we begin some pretty challenging forward fold preparation postures. I can't wait to share these poses with everyone. The belly poses are extra juicy. Sometimes boat pose just gets soooo boring. He takes us into a nice long savasana and that's that. That's what our Iyengar teacher says when he is finished instead of Namaste! Funny!

Here I am with Mohan Bhandari who taught us Hatha Yoga Energy Flow.

We have to leave after class quickly as there is a photoshoot on the Ganga in 45 minutes. After lots of Indian style confusion I find myself in front of Swamiji for Darshan with 20 or so others. He teels us about living in the jungle with his teacher as a young boy and how his teacher would slap him when he wasn't paying attention to the moment. He is explaining how it was important to him to have a teacher. He says it is not the same for everyone, but for him it was necessary. He talks about the letter his mother sent him when he came back out of the jungle and how he expected her to be proud of him. The letter said that when he helps others instead of himself in all his new found glory with all of his followers, then she will be proud. He had tears in his eyes when he spoke of this time. As I was watching him I started watching his hands move through the air as he spoke. When I looked in his eyes I could see his hands in my periferal vision and they appeared to be blackish. I shook my head and looked at his hands. They looked soft and delicate. But again when I looked at his eyes his hands looked black. Maybe it was the light or maybe there is a deeper meaning to this. I don't know but it was very interesting. After darshan I took the picture below sitting by his side. His energy is very loving and kind. he often places his hands over his heart when he passes you on the street in the ahsram.

We all meet back at the AArti celebration along the Ganga for a group photo. Natalie and Priscilla save a space for me. There are around 500 people here plus all of the children and teachers and Swamiji. The AArti is beautul as we sing sacred songs and pass fire to burn away bad karma.

Day Four & I'm Sore!

2009-03-04T08:56:00.001-08:00

Here's an overview of the courtyard outside the yoga hall where meals are served

After the Jivamukti class we're pretty happy, including our new friend from Boulder, CO.

These school girls walk in line through the ashram. So pretty!

We slept in today and began with Iyengar at 8:15am. All of us are so blown away by this teacher. He seems to be warming up to us a lot since every day we are all sitting on the floor in the front row waiting patiently when he arrives. After class we eat, which seems to be our regular schedule now. The food has been really good here at the ashram so we eat here for almost every meal. The chai tea is great. I told myself I wouldn't get hooked again while I'm here though so I try to only drink it every other day. Natalie and Priscilla are drinking Starbucks steamed milk with coffee. Natalie loves it! And Mr. Starbucks loves Natalie. We walk after eating to help digest our food. Plus walking through the market is always an adventure. The people here are so used to seeing westerners that they don't stare at us as much as other places I've visited first time through. Sometimes it's hard to not stare when we see people on the ground begging for money, blind people perched on a ledge by the Ganga chanting a mantra holding out their hands for ruppees. It's hard not to look at the holy men sitting at the edge of the market reading their scriptures as if they are inside a temple. The niose in the market is disturbing at times with the constant honking and motorbikes and barking dogs. Sometimes it's overwhelming.

After our walk we hurry back for our next class. Day four and we're all sore! This is how Gabrielle, our Jivamukti teacher, began the class today. The room was filled with about 100 students. Natalie, Priscilla and I were in the front row as usual. We chanted; Lokah Samasta Sukino Bavantu (May all being beings be happy and free. And may our words thoughts and actions contribute in some way to the happiness and freedom of all beings- sound familiar?), to begin our class. I video taped a bit of it so you could all share in on the vibration. But I don't think Natalie's camera has sound. (:-( Anyway, at least you can see all of the beautiful yogis practicing Dharana and Bhakti. The class was a blast. Some modified Sun Salutes and lots of holding postures including pigeon( which I have been totally craving lately) and gomukasana. Our hips feel great after this. Gabrielle's voice is so soothing and trance inducing. She plays beautiful rhythmic music that helps us stay in the moment. She also has 3 or 4 assistants doing ajustments in the room. If you've never had a Jivamukti adjustment, you have no idea what you're missing. The helpers rub china gel on every body in the class, or maybe that's just a benefit of being front and center. This helps our bodies move more easily in and out of each posture. The class ends with a long Savansana and three oooooooooom's. Nice!

By this time the sun is gently setting over the Mata Ganga(this means mother Ganges- Hindu's and others believe the river is a living breathing healing being). Natalie and Priscilla are on their third day in a row massage. Today they are including the facial for free for us being such loyal and regular customers. I decide to do some shopping along the river and write on the blog. We meet at our favorite restaurant, Madras, where there are many westerners eating and hanging out. They know us now after our fourth day in a row eating there. They have this amazing banana pancake that melts in your mouth. They don't use syrup though. Instead it is served with honey. Sweeeeet! A bit too much, so now we order sauce on the side. When I was in Pune in January I fell in love with Paneer(Indian cheese), Masala(sauce) Tikka( I have no idea what this word means!) It's kind of a redish sauce with the cheese and veggies mixed in served with rice on the side. The sauce has a sweetness to it that is incredible unique and delicious. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. So anyway, that is my Indian Veggie Heaven. Or my Indian Vegetarian Pizza from Georgio's!. You that know me know exactly what I mean.

Write more later. Namaste and lots of Love from India~ Lynne

Monkey Lady Breaks Her Arm

2009-03-03T23:10:00.000-08:00

Here's Natalie getting here first blessing.

Natalie calls this man "Number One". Yesterday another street vendor asked if he could be Number Two! hehehe

Here's Natalie with Starbucks. He makes good coffee!!

The end of our third day. On our way back to our room I stop and go into the office area by the "nice" bathrooms to fetch some water while my companions wait outside. I walk into the back room where the boys that Swamiji has saved from poverty sit to meditate and eat. It's dark and empty but feels safe. Pictures of Swamiji are everywhere. When he was a young boy he went out into the forest to train with the saints and sages that live in recluse. He returned to civilization years later to help others, start an ashram and save hundreds of boys from their cast systems' inevitable future. Now the boys are trained in spiritual teachings and educated by Swamiji and others. They become great yogis and we will be seeing a demonstration by them on the last day along side the great Mata Ganga River.

When I come out Natalie is talking to the "Monkey Chaser", as Natalie calls her. She is responsible for keeping the monkeys at a comfortable distance during the yoga festival. But tonight she is down for the count with her arm slung up in a cast. We assume she fell while chasing monkeys through the ashram but can't be certain as her English is very broken. Natalie also has named the man who serves her coffee every day "Starbucks", and Drew, the man who handles the keys at the ashram, "Key Master".

Today we woke up early again for the 6:30am class. This is a new experience for us as we practice yoga with Swami Yoganandaji. He is a 99 year old man dressed in all orange, including long underwear. He stands up on stage shouting out to us in Hindi. There is a translator present but he talks very quickly and she has trouble keeping up. After several moderate exercises he had us lifting our arms and laughing out loud, "Hehehe", he says, Ho, ho ho". We laugh even louder. His energy is so sweet. He is skinny and frail looking but obviously full of life. Eventually he picks up the pace and has us running in place, "Faster", he shouts out in English, "Faster, faster, faster! Lay down." Savasana. After several minutes he shouts out, "Get up". End of savasana. This class lasts an hour and we feel so light and joyful afterwards. People around the ashram love him and he seems to get so much joy out of teaching and sharing his vibrancy with us.

Me and Swami Yogananda.

Of course by now we are all addicted to our new Iyengar teacher, Raya UmaDatta. He is a native to Pune, India, where he had been a student of Guruji since 1989. He teaches at the Iyengar Institute where he took classes as a child. He has a Masters degree in Philosphy from Pune University. We all feel so much more in our bodies, as a yogi would say. Be connected to yourself, as he has told us over and over for the last four days now. He is telling us to "be with ourselves". I love that. His analogies are funny. He asks us, "even while I am talking, right now, are you some place else thinking about lunch or something other than your body?" Yep!

Tonight we went for another massage. I stop for my first blessing on the street in the market. (see pic) The man has me repeat sacred words and says that I will find good luck in my future. After our massage was over there wasn't any hot water so my girl keeps coming back to massage my head, my feet, my neck. Fine with me! Eventually we all get a nice hot shower and have some hot ginger lemon tea. Natalie negotiates a free facial and half hour yoga class for each us for our inconvenience when we return for our next massage. A steam and hot shower are part of the 1000 rupee deal.(that's about $20) Talking with the manager afterwards we find out that we are their first and only customers since they opened. What a great find. Here are some pics from the lobby and inside the massage room.

All of the effort in the world cannot stop someone from stepping in some sacred dung on the street. Tonight it is Priscilla. Uggggg! Thanks Natalie. Good thing we brought that water. Talk to you all soon. Please feel free to comment. I'll be posting more pics soon so keep checking back. Namaskar! Lynne

Our Second Day

2009-03-02T07:14:00.000-08:00

We did make it to the 6:30am class, thanks to Natalie's alarm clock, and it was well worth it. The class began with many rounds of alternate nostril breathing. We go slow on one side then the other. Then we go fast on each side. After that we begin switching sides going slow first then fast. Fast is very confusing and it takes great concentration to keep up. After pranayam we start chanting. At the crack of dawn, on the sacred Ganges River, in the yoga capital of the world, we are busy learning the sacred songs of India; learning one word, one line, one chant at a time. Our teacher is a lovely Indian woman who cured herself of an fatal disease with yoga and pranayam. Her voice is angelic. We find it difficult to follow her notes that seem foriegn to us. She guides us patiently and everyone laugh when she stops singing and lets us go on our own and the tune competely falls a part. She says we must be tired from all the yoga we have been doing.

After yesterdays amazing Iyengar class we decide to attend once again. The teacher gives lots of examples straight from the mouth of Guru-ji. In one example he asked us to compare our posture to a dead tree or an alive tree. "Don't let your muscles just hang on your bones", he tells us. I love this analogy. He asks us to feek\l the pose in our fingers, in our feet, in our hearts. To feel the posture throughout the whole body. To bring the posture alive! Wow! I've only practiced Iyengar once before and that was back here at the International Yoga Festival(IYF) back in 2006. I love all of the alignment information. I'm soaking it up like a sponge. He has us practice the same shoulder openers before , during and after each set of postures, making sure we continually come back to our Tadasana alignment with our chest up, shoulders back and feet grounded. It's exactly what I need. After two yoga classes we are starving. Luckily there is a huge brunch in the coutyard under the bright blue sky surrounded by the Himalayan mountains. Ahhhh!

We head out into the the "city" and explore new territory looking for yoga and massage. Monkeys climb the walls of the streets in search of food and fun. Sadhus walk the streets and I pay them for pictures. ( sorry, haven't been able to get them posted yet. working on it daily!) We see lots of heart ache on the streets too. Blind women begging, holy people eating out of bowls while sitting on the ground, old men walking with a stick for a cane, dogs barking and chasing away their emancipated brother. So sad! The ganges river runs along the street and people swin and sit on huge rocks close to shore. I am blown away to see horses on the river grazing in the sun. I thought they were wild coming from the mountains but my Hindu friend here just told me there are no wild horses left in India. Darn, sounded much more romantic. My mom and i rented Night in .... before I left Michigan and there were wild horses on the beach at the end. Guess I was searching for synchronicity. No need, especially here.

We head back home to attend another Vinyasa Energy flow class, same as yesterday. The teacher shouts out to the class to watch the front row if they are confused. That's where we are. Tomorrow we were asked to be on stage to demontrate. We'll see. By the end of this class I am whipped and ready for a nap. I eat a bit and go to one more clas, much more low key. Shamdas is an American who lives part time in Vrindavan since he was 18 years old. He studied Bhakti yoga his whole life and talks about what it was like in India in 1972, when he first came. He has a tabla player, the two sided drum is played by an American woman, a flutist who was just here in the internet cafe. He said he is from Russia. And another drummer who site in the back. His voice is beautiful and you can tell he sings from his heart. I am so exhausted I can't even make it to the end of class. So I sneak out quietly and return to the room where I find Priscilla nd Natalie both snug in ther beds. Remember, it is only 4pm but 6:30am came really early! I take a long nap while they head back for their second massage. I felt a little bit sick after my nap but recover quickly after dinner. We're heading home to sleep so we can rise arly again. Hope all is well back home. Write more tomorrow. Love & Light to you all~ Lynne

Our First Day at the IYF

2009-03-01T08:00:00.001-08:00

Photo: Priscilla & Natalie at the entrance to the Ashram looking out over the Ganges

What a day! Three yoga classes, lots of good food, and an awesome massage with hot shower. We don't realize how fortunate we are in the U.S. To have a nice long hot shower here is a blessing. Hot is definitely a relative word. The first class taugh by one of BKS Iyengars main teachers from his ashram in Pune was an amazing two hour class first thing this morning. Iyengar is an alignment based practice where they use props to help you be more comfortable in each position. After brunch we attended a one hour Jivamukti yoga class with Gabriella, from the Jivamukti yoga center in Germany. Since my x-roomates Michael and Steph are both Jivamukti teachers I was very interested in taking this class. Her voice was beautiful and the music rocked. Not hard core but perfect for this gentle flowing class under the gold and white draped tent. She had a few assistants doing awesome adjustments on the fifty plus students in the class. We flowed through some traditional Surya Namaskars and then another slow flow. She promised to kick it up in the next few classes she will be teaching, telling us this was just an introduction to this style since many people here are not very familiar with this style of yoga.

After a small snack we went on to take another one hour class in the Vinyasa Energy Flow Yogasana. We sat in the front row as to not miss anything and ended up the stars of the show. I felt very connected to this young articulate teacher. As if I had been in her class many times before. She kept looking at me as if to say keep going, show them how it's done. So I did. Natalie was rockin' the house too. She really loved the class. Afterwards we took this picture with the teacher. She asked me to demo her next classes for her so she could focus more on giving instructions. It's difficult to do both while holding a microphone. We practiced More Surya Namaskars, and then went into some Ashtanga postures holding for six breaths per posture. It felt really great. Afterwards we headed over Ram Jula bridge to the other side of the Mata Ganga (Ganges River) to find the spa that Priscilla and Natalie had found while exploring earlier in the day. They said they started with the Chevy version until they found the Roll Royce. We climbed up a cement hill, up two sets of stairs, until we found heaven. The spa is situated over a dingy garage and overlooks the beautiful river. Priscilla should be writing this because she had the best adventure of all. We got our massages side by side while Natalie once again got the deluxe treatment.The massage was followed by a "sauna", if you will, and a "hot" shower that ended up flooding the hallway. We were told that the bugs were still being worked out since they had only been open for one month. Not bad for 1000 rupees though! (that's about $20 American) We walked over to Masala Cafe for some awesome Indian food. Prisilla and Nat had dosas and I found my Paneer Masala Tikka from Pune last year. So now we are all exhausted and planning on attending a 6:30am class. We'll see!Keep checking back for more of this adventure in Shivaland.
Namaste everyone.
Love & Light~ Lynne

Our Trip To Rishikesh

2009-02-28T22:58:00.000-08:00

Well, it seems like days since I wrote last. So much to share. After an hour flight from Delhi, much shorter than the train, we hired a driver to take us to the ashram. Our ride through the mountains from Dehradun was an eye opener. It was like being on a roller coaster ride. I sat between Natalie and Priscilla in the back seat and felt like being in a pinball machine being pushed from one side to the other as the car swayed around sharp turned on the edge of the mountain. I kept apologizing but eventually gave in, kicked my shoes off, and went with the flow. Around one bend a car going in the other direction cut the corner too fast and slammed into the side of us. I grabbed Natalie's wrist and hung on, squeezing my eyes tightly closed. I could only think of what it would be like tumbling, my new word in yoga class, down the side of the mountain. The car stopped. I opened my eyes and let go of Nat. The driver got out to look at the damage as the other car sped away. Only in India. The damage was minimal and we went on our merry way.

We arrived at the ashram at the end of the first registration period. The woman at the desk squeezed us in so we wouldn't have to wait for our room. Unfortunately, she booked us in a room with two men, and their elderly parents. What? Back to the drawing board. Poor American girl working the room assignments was so patient. We ended up upgraded to a larger more private room and now we are all happy. The room is still Indian style with hard floors and beds and stinky covers. We let Natalie have the single room. After all, we stayed in a 5 star last night because of her kindness. Priscilla and I share the other room. We have a common area with a sofa and chairs that face the center of the ashram. Sweet!

Today for our first day at the festival we attended an Iyengar Yoga class at 8:15am and learned so much about Tadasana, Triangle and Warrior II pose. Supported sivasana felt amazing after all of the travel in the last few days. Brunch in the courtyard with the sun shining brighly was delicious. Lots of rice, lentils, salad, veggies, and chapati. Yummy! Heading to take a Jivamukti class next. Let you all know how our first Aarti goes this evening. I'm going to try to take some video and post it on the blog, if I can figure it out.
Namaste from the land of Shiva~ Lynne

On Our Way!

2009-02-24T20:52:00.000-08:00

Our first flight was cake! Seriously. Natalie was upgraded to business class and Priscilla and I reaped the rewards. The plane was huge and each seat had individual televisions with movies. Priscilla loved the food. I was a bit more apprehensive. I crashed out right away and then woke and watched three movies, back to back.

We landed in Amsterdam at 7am, 1am our time. As soon as we got in the airport we headed for Star Bucks. Soy Chai was "same same but different"- that's an Indian saying. We visited a museum of art inside the airport with paintings, sculptures and ceramics from the 16th century. One of the painting discriptions spoke of a style that was described as " seeming but not being". I could teach a whole class around that!

Anyway, second flight, not so good! The plane was older, babies crying, bad breath guy sitting next to Priscilla. Yeah, not so good. But we are here now in Delhi reaping the rewards of traveling with Natalie once again. The Crown Royal Hotel where we are staying the night is much better than the first room I stayed in here in Delhi. I guess that's the difference between 200 rupees and 4300 rupees. We waited for our luggage last night for over an hour and didn't arrive to the hotel until 2am, exhausted and hungry. We slept like babies last night and today had complimentary breakfast in the executive Club Room on the sixth floor.

So now we are ready to go out into the world of India. Our flight takes off at 3pm. and arrives in Dehradun around 4:30. We will catch a crazy car ride through the mountains along a narow dirt road where our driver honks incessantly to avoid collision.The next entries on the blog will be from Rishikesh, in the foothills of the Himalayan Mountains, the land of Shiva, the yoga capital of the world. We will be keeping you posted along the way.
For now,
Namaste~

2008-04-18T12:49:00.000-07:00